Climbing Portland (Stay at The Aqua)

Portland is one of the most popular centres for sports climbing in southern England.

Its coastal sea cliffs offer over 900 routes to climbers, against a backdrop of a spectacular coastline. Though the Portland cliffs are steep, they do not have the blocky, overhanging structure exhibited at Swanage. The faces are smoother and more pocketed. Some of the more demanding climbing sites are complimented by smaller cliffs that attract the novices.

There are bolted climbs in all grades from easy grade F3 to F8A. With climbs on both the east and west coast of the island, it is possible, even in winter, to climb in the sun throughout the day. The vast majority of climbs are situated well above sea level and are therefore not affected by tides. These geologically important cliffs also provide an important habitat for a diverse variety of plants and animals, some of which are nationally or globally protected. Variable restrictions for nesting birds apply some crags between March 1st and July 31st.

Climber Cafes:
One of the most recent cafes and accommodation centres targeting climbers and activity enthusiasts is the The Aqua Guest house and Cafe situated in Castletown. This practical cafe has indoor and outdoor seating and sports-friendly staff.

The more traditional climber cafes on the island include The Tea Cosy and Jammie’s in Fortuneswell and the Cove House Inn right on Chesil beach. The Sugar Loaf in Easton is very popular with climbers while the Church Ope Cafe is a few minutes from the Cuttings.

Further Information & Contacts

Detailed information about the climbs and restrictions are
available in Dorset, By Pete Oxley, Rock Fax Publications, ISBN 18-733-416-52, Price £16.99.  Also Swanage and Portland Climbers Club Guide by Nigel Coe, ISBN 0-901-601-56-X, Price £15.95.

You may also get a copy of “Portland – Information for Climbers” produced by Dorset Countryside Service and Weymouth & Portland Borough Council is available from the Portland Island Ranger, Tel: 01305 251507.

Resource:
Weymouth & Portland Borough Council - A Brief Guide to Climbing in Portland

Portland Geology: An excellent source of information to the climbs  and geology of Portland with a regional breakdown, charts and formation information can be found at the web site of Southampton University .

British Mountaineering Council. Tel: 0161 445 4747.
Local Area Representatives:
For Portland – Neal Heanes Tel: 01305 823100.